Nevis grows on people. It’s a destination that many love because of its laid-back, old-fashioned lifestyle. Being here is akin to the way things were a century ago: power supplies are unpredictable, roads are riddled with potholes, and it’s not unusual for the island to run out of supplies if the seas are high and cargo boats can’t dock. Yet, it’s this charm that attracts many who return year after year. It’s a place where everyone knows everyone, and it’s hard to get away with anything without becoming the talk of the town.

Despite old-time charm, Nevis does have a posh Four Seasons Resort and several upscale plantation inns that provide modern-day services in spite of it all.

Today, Nevis relies primarily on tourism to drive its economic engine. Of the nearly 10,000 residents, more than 700 work at the Four Seasons, and many more staff the other hotels and restaurants. In addition to tourism, Nevis’ other big industry is offshore financial institutions, and dozens of them have opened in recent years.

The birthplace of American patriot Alexander Hamilton, Nevis has a colorful history as the one time stomping ground of British Naval Admiral Horatio Nelson. Nevis flourished in the 18th and early 19th centuries when sugar dominated the economy of the Caribbean, and particularly Nevis. Once English, the island is now an independent Federation with its sister island of St. Kitts. However, many on Nevis have believed that Nevis should strike out on its own. In 1999, a referendum to succeed from the Federation was narrowly defeated in a popular vote. The English traditions have continued, and the schools, government, and other institutions are based on the British systems.

Because of its rich history, Nevis is physically beautiful with the ruins of old plantations with chimneys and windmills dotting the landscape. The capital of Charlestown is filled with charming West Indian buildings, constructed of volcanic stone and decorated with wooden gingerbread.

We have one primary road, 21.5 miles long and circular, it runs around the island, so it’s difficult to get lost here, unless you’re hiking in the mountains without a guide.

Charlestown

This wonderful 18th century city is considered the main harbor; it looks across at its sister island, St. Kitts. Laid out along the main road that encircles the island, Charlestown is a collection of mostly volcanic stone buildings, often with wooden second floors. Today, many of them are undergoing restoration.

Two main squares form the heart of the town, Memorial Square and Walwyn Square. At Memorial Square is the Courthouse, where the imposing English-style jurisprudence is practiced, and a well-known clock tower sits on the top.

The Treasury Building, the town’s jewel, is located near the center, with plans in place for its restoration. At one end of town is the delightful St. Paul’s Anglican Church, with its walled-in churchyard. Along the harbor is the former Cotton Ginnery, which was recently rehabilitated to house several small shops, an ice cream parlor, and restaurant. Next to this is our colorful public market, where vendors sell produce daily.

Off the main road is the Jewish Cemetery, which has been the subject of many studies into the one-time population of Jews who came to the island from Brazil to run the sugar industry.

There are two museums in town: the Museum of Nevis History
situated along the waterfront in the home where Hamilton was born, and the Nelson Museum, a one-time private collection of memorabilia of Lord Nelson was given to the museum.

Near the Nelson Museum is the former Bath Hotel, now in a sorry state, but once a fabulous resort hotel that attracted the likes of Samuel Coleridge. Near the hotel are hotel springs and these thermal bath attracted visitors from Europe and throughout the world because of their medicinal qualities. Today the Bath Hotel is empty, overrun by goats and sheep, and awaiting a wealthy investor able to return it to its former greatness.

Fig Tree & Montpelier

These two rural areas are steeped in history. At the charming, tiny Fig Tree Church is the wedding registry of Lord Nelson and the widow Fanny Nisbet, who were actually married at Montpelier House on March 11, 1787. Montpelier House, located right near the Montpelier Plantation Inn, was built on the site of the original Great House. James Gaskill, an Englishman, who created a world-class inn on the site upon the ruins, constructed the inn. There’s still a wonderful windmill from 1794 on the grounds.

In the Montpelier area is the new Botanical Garden of Nevis, built several years ago by a Pennsylvania businessman who was determined to create the most outstanding botanical garden in the Caribbean. Some say he is succeeding.

Gingerland

This lovely area of the island is known for its cool, green environment. Located at the base of Nevis peak near the rain forest, Gingerland has retained its original old-time flavor. There are still many old wooden chattel houses here, rum shops, and sheep and goats running free on the terrain.

In the center of the village is the Gingerland Methodist Church, as well as a small commercial area with several small stores.

Just before you reach the center of Gingerland is the Old Manor Hotel, built on an old sugar estate, with wonderfully intact ruins of the sugar factory. Lovely guest rooms have been built atop the stone ruins, offering gracious accommodation on the cool mountain slopes.

Gingerland is also the home of the Golden Rock Plantation Inn, a former sugar plantation, where many of the island’s green vervet monkeys live. Visitors usually make a stop at the inn to look for monkeys (early morning and later afternoon are best) and to walk the inn’s nature trail. It’s also a jumping off point for hikes up the mountain.

New River & Coconut Walk

On the windward side of the island are flatlands that were once used for sugar plantations. Now the ruins consist of old factories, steam engines, and a working lime kiln can be visited to get an idea of what plantation life was like. Closest to the main road is New River, the ruins of which are preserved for visitors to see. Following the goat trail down towards the water (you can actually follow the goats themselves), you’ll reach Coconut Walk.

Newcastle

The small village of Newcastle at one time had an old post office and other old buildings. But when it came time to expand the Nevis airport to allow larger planes to land, Newcastle had to go. The town was raised in the late 1990s and the runway became 200 feet longer to allow the American Eagle hopper planes to land. The Eagle still has not landed, but Nevis is ready and larger private jets have begun to arrive. The face of Newcastle is continually changing with a new airport terminal now underway with more parking.

Jones Estate

This “modern” developed area is where the bulk of the expatriate community lives. Many new homes have been built here in the last ten years and several restaurants have sprung up. Jones Estate abuts the sea, so there is easy beach access here, and really the only waterfront homes are located in this area.

Nearby is the Oualie Beach Hotel, a center for water sports, the Inn at Cades Bay, a new beachfront hotel, and Cliffdwellers, a luxury villa community which has also weekly hotel-type rentals. Restaurants in and near Jones Estate include Miss June’s Cuisine, located in a private home, Tequila Sheila’s, and Under the Sea, a restaurant/aquarium.

Overview

The British Virgin Islands are made up of a collection of smaller islands, each with its own unique topography and island vibe. Virgin Gorda, one of the largest islands, is a popular tourist spot with posh resorts, pristine beaches and great sailing. Virgin Gorda is probably most famous for the Baths, a unique national park on the island’s southwest coast. The Baths is unlike any other beach in the Caribbean. It features white sandy beaches framed by gigantic granite boulders, some of these with diameters reaching 40 feet. Geologists believe that these odd formations are the result of volcanoes. However, there’s no need to worry about exactly how Mother Nature created these awesome sculptures. Instead, bring along your water shoes, a snorkel and a waterproof camera and explore the series of caves and grottos created by these irregular boulders.

The Baths formations truly are majestic, but it seems every visitor to the island has the same destination in mind. For an escape from the crowds, Virgin Gorda’s natural wonders continue on from the Baths. Visitors can follow winding paths and trails to Devil’s Bay Beach. These shores are lined with coral sands that blend into startling blue water. Spring Bay is another great beach that is easily accessible from the Baths. This popular snorkeling spot is home to even more unique sea creatures.

Getting There
Nearest Major International Airport: The nearest airport is Terrence B. Lettsome International Airport in Tortola, British Virgin Islands. However, visitors traveling from North America typically need to connect through Puerto Rico or the U.S. Virgin Islands, as there are no direct flights. Once visitors arrive in Tortola, they can catch a boat to the neighboring Virgin Gorda. Many of the island’s resorts have their own private transfers available from Tortola, either by boat or chartered helicopter.

Ground Transportation: Once there, visitors can take private, open-sided buses to travel the most popular roads on the island going from the Valley to the Baths. Many resorts provide transportation around the island as well. Visitors who prefer to take in the sights at their own pace may opt to rent a car; however, the road conditions can be dangerous at points and, as in Britain, driving is on the left side of the road.

Timing
It seems the weather is always perfect in the Virgin Islands, with daytime temperatures in the mid-80s and evening temperatures in the 70s throughout most of the year. The busiest time of year (and most expensive) is the high season, from mid-December through mid-April. Then, of course, there’s the Caribbean hurricane season from June to November, but many travelers still plan trips during these months to take advantage of low rates.

Lodging
A trio of upscale resorts dominate Virgin Gorda’s hotel scene. Each resort is unique in its setting and atmosphere, but all offer incomparable service and luxury – generally with a high price tag. Laurance Rockefeller developed the sophisticated Little Dix Bay (www.littledixbay.com) in the 1960s, and the resort is still lauded for its elegant and rustic style today. The Bitter End Yacht Club (www.beyc.com) is perfect for accomplished first mates or sailing protégées who want to learn the ropes. Biras Creek (www.biras.com) is a private retreat on the northern side of the island. It’s the most secluded of the resorts, accessible only by a quick private boat ride from the mainland, and the most intimate, with a full capacity at 60 guests. Less expensive accommodations are available around the island, including the vacation homes at Guavaberry Spring Bay (www.guavaberryspringbay.com) and the condos at Olde Yard Village (www.oldeyardvillage.com).

Cuisine
Classic Caribbean fare can be found around the island. Fish is usually the most requested menu item and can be prepared in dozens of ways. The most popular catches include red snapper, mahi mahi, wahoo, yellowtail and lobster. An island specialty is callaloo soup. It is made with leafy greens, okra and a selection of ingredients to the chef’s liking, conch and crab being the most popular. A variety of bars and casual restaurants can be found at the Baths. The bar at Mad Dog serves up tropical drinks with a fabulous view, while Poor Man’s Bar is a beachside bar offering drinks, sandwiches and snacks at the Baths. The Rock Café and Top of the Baths offer great views and more formal indoor and outdoor dining with more extensive menus.

Travel Tips
To make the most of your time visiting the Baths, do your best to avoid the crowds, which reach their peak between 10 a.m. and 4 p.m.

While You are Here
Spring Bay can be reached by the series of trails that stretch out from the Baths. Large boulders form more coves and hidden grottos along the beach. Bring along your snorkel and a pair of flippers and explore the calm, fish-filled waters.

Take in a different view of Virgin Gorda from the highest point on the island at Gorda Peak National Park, on the northern part of the island. The trek to the top of the mountain is about 30 minutes and offers a nice view of the chain of islands below.

Overview

In 1956, tycoon Laurance Rockefeller purchased a large portion of St. John and turned it into a national park to preserve the beauty of the island. Today, the smallest of the three U.S. Virgin Islands, St. John is 28 square miles – almost two-thirds of which is designated as a U.S. national park. As other islands in the Caribbean become overdeveloped with super-size resorts and tourist attractions, St. John remains remarkably untouched – a trait that only increases its lure.

There are two main resorts on the island, and a number of smaller accommodations classified as eco-tourism sites, meaning they are earth-friendly and typically powered by the wind and sun. These unique resorts are affordable and comfortable, offering privacy and a sense of peace. Simplicity aside, St. John sure doesn’t skimp when it comes to great food and ambiance. There are excellent restaurants both at the resorts and in the colorful town of Cruz Bay, where the tiny streets house four-star establishments offering gourmet meals in a barefoot setting – you may have the urge to dress up for dinner, but leave your shoes behind!

There are a number of beaches on St. John, from the long sandy stretch of Cinnamon Bay to the more secluded Hawksnest Beach, Lameshur Bay and Salt Pond Bay. You may wish to explore them all or to pick your favorite on your first day of vacation, leaving your station only to eat and sleep. The beauty of St. John is there is no pressure to do anything on the island, except relax and enjoy the scenery. Oh, and of course, to snorkel, as the waters here are some of the clearest on any of the islands and home to schools of bright multicolored fish and meandering sea turtles. The sister U.S. Virgin Islands, as well as the nearby British Virgin Islands, are easily accessible by boat and make a great day trip to check out what’s happening nearby. These islands are a little more fast-paced and house a variety of shops, restaurants and cultural attractions. That is, if you’re able to tear yourself away from St. John, where it’s easy to adapt to life on island time and difficult to leave.

Best on the Beach
Caneel Bay Resort
Where: P.O. Box 720, St. John, U.S.V.I., 00831-0720
Phone: (340) 776-6111
Web site: www.caneelbay.com
Rates: $350 to $1,050
The Rosewood Caneel Bay Resort is a perfect Zen hideaway, blending undisputed elegance and comfort with a quiet sense of peace, right down to television-free rooms. With the resort’s seven secluded beaches and 170 acres of lush tropical fauna, the buildings blend into the background and nature takes her rightful place center stage. The service is personal and the friendly knock at the door that serves as the morning wake-up call is more than a reminder to rise – it invites guests to get up and enjoy the watercolor classes, kayak tours, an underwater session with the “snorkologist,” tai chi classes and, of course, the beach.

Best Luxury
Westin Resort St. John
Where: Rte. 104, Great Cruz Bay, St. John
Phone: 1-888-627-7206; 340-693-8000
Web site: www.westinresortstjohn.com
Rates: $299 to $1,589; rates vary seasonally
Those visitors attracted to the pristine beaches and rugged wildlife of St. John, but not interested in roughing it, will find supreme comfort in the trademark Heavenly Bed at the Westin Resort. Some may argue that this resort goes against the simple, laid-back beauty of the island, but many visitors find a piece of paradise here with golf, tennis, fine dining and spacious rooms. The Westin Kid’s Club will keep the wee ones busy, and there is still plenty of time to hike, snorkel and explore the hidden beauty of St. John.

Best Beachfront Camping
Cinnamon Bay Campground
Where: P.O. Box 720, Cruz Bay
Phone: 340-776-6330
Web site: www.cinnamonbay.com
Rates: $27 for bare sites; $58-$80 for tents; $70 to $140 for cottages
Maintained by the National Park Service, Cinnamon Bay is a true “camper’s campground,” featuring beachfront campsites enclosed in a border of tropical wilderness. Cinnamon provides varied levels of comfort, with a choice of cottages with twin beds, tent sites or bare sites perfect for those diehards who bring their own high-tech camping gear. The cottages and tent sites provide fresh linens and cooking supplies, making packing a little lighter, and the cottages also offer cooking facilities. The Tree Lizards Restaurant is a great place to meet other campers, as are the on-site activities that make this campground feel like an intimate village – a good thing when you’re sharing a bathroom with your neighbors.

Most Original
Maho Bay Camps
Phone: 1-800-392-9004
Web site: www.maho.org
Rates: $75 to $125
Welcome nature lovers and enviromentalists – Maho Bay Camps proves that a Caribbean vacation doesn’t have to equal high-rise hotels and lavish spending. A model of eco-tourism, the Maho Bay Camps contains 114 wood-frame tent cottages that are comfortable and uncluttered. Even non-campers will feel at home and sleep peacefully, thanks to the combination of the gentle night air that rustles the wall-size screens and the clear conscience from staying at this charming, environmentally-friendly hideaway.

Best Oceanside Fine Dining
Caneel Bay Beach Terrace Dining Room
Where: Caneel Bay Hotel, P.O. Box 720, St. John, U.S.V.I., 00831-0720
Phone: (340) 776-6111
Web site: www.caneelbay.com/dine4.cfm
Mere steps from the beach, this is just one of the restaurants at Caneel Bay Resort that serves up supremely tasty food in a striking setting. The terrace serves a daily lunch buffet ($27), but the grande dame of this eatery is the Grande Buffet ($65), which is offered once a week. It’s hard not to stuff yourself on the fresh seafood, elaborate entrees and decadent desserts – and the perfect finale is simple; just sit back and watch the waves roll out to the bay.

Best Caribbean Food
Miss Lucy’s
Where: Salt Pond Road, near Estate Concordia, Coral Bay
Phone: (340) 693-5244
Miss Lucy plays a hard-to-forget role in the interesting cast of characters around the island. Not only is she the legendary “first female taxi driver” around town, today she is certainly the “host with the most” at the restaurant that bears her name. Specialties include a spicy West Indian stew of okra and greens called callaloo, conch fritters and fresh fish, all enjoyed with a classic side dish of cornmeal and okra known as fungi. Miss Lucy puts together an unforgettable Sunday brunch, and for those lucky enough to be around for a full moon, she also throws mysterious full-moon parties to celebrate the gleaming Caribbean moon with a roast-suckling pig.

Best Casual Bar
Shipwreck Landing
Where: 34 Freeman’s Ground, Rte. 107, Coral Bay
Phone: (340) 693-5640
Celebrate happy hour with a frozen tropical drink and burger or fresh blackened snapper sandwich at a table overlooking the sea at Shipwreck Landing. Nothing is fancy here – from the food to the atmosphere to the clientele – and it offers a great taste of island life. Wednesday nights feature live entertainment, with local bands playing old favorites or peppy jazz.

Best Elegant Dining
Asolare
Where: Cruz Bay
Phone: (340) 779-4747
Situated atop a hill overlooking Cruz Bay and the neighboring British Virgin Islands, Asolare is the best choice for an elegant meal in the center of St. John. While the French and Asian cuisine is so tasty it could come straight from an upscale New York kitchen, this is not your typical city restaurant – Asolare maintains the island’s leisurely vibe, allowing diners to enjoy their meal in an unrushed, relaxed setting.