SunBeach Travel

The Most Pristine of Virgin Gorda Beaches
Jennifer Plum Auvil

Overview

The British Virgin Islands are made up of a collection of smaller islands, each with its own unique topography and island vibe. Virgin Gorda, one of the largest islands, is a popular tourist spot with posh resorts, pristine beaches and great sailing. Virgin Gorda is probably most famous for the Baths, a unique national park on the island’s southwest coast. The Baths is unlike any other beach in the Caribbean. It features white sandy beaches framed by gigantic granite boulders, some of these with diameters reaching 40 feet. Geologists believe that these odd formations are the result of volcanoes. However, there’s no need to worry about exactly how Mother Nature created these awesome sculptures. Instead, bring along your water shoes, a snorkel and a waterproof camera and explore the series of caves and grottos created by these irregular boulders.

The Baths formations truly are majestic, but it seems every visitor to the island has the same destination in mind. For an escape from the crowds, Virgin Gorda’s natural wonders continue on from the Baths. Visitors can follow winding paths and trails to Devil’s Bay Beach. These shores are lined with coral sands that blend into startling blue water. Spring Bay is another great beach that is easily accessible from the Baths. This popular snorkeling spot is home to even more unique sea creatures.

Getting There
Nearest Major International Airport: The nearest airport is Terrence B. Lettsome International Airport in Tortola, British Virgin Islands. However, visitors traveling from North America typically need to connect through Puerto Rico or the U.S. Virgin Islands, as there are no direct flights. Once visitors arrive in Tortola, they can catch a boat to the neighboring Virgin Gorda. Many of the island’s resorts have their own private transfers available from Tortola, either by boat or chartered helicopter.

Ground Transportation: Once there, visitors can take private, open-sided buses to travel the most popular roads on the island going from the Valley to the Baths. Many resorts provide transportation around the island as well. Visitors who prefer to take in the sights at their own pace may opt to rent a car; however, the road conditions can be dangerous at points and, as in Britain, driving is on the left side of the road.

Timing
It seems the weather is always perfect in the Virgin Islands, with daytime temperatures in the mid-80s and evening temperatures in the 70s throughout most of the year. The busiest time of year (and most expensive) is the high season, from mid-December through mid-April. Then, of course, there’s the Caribbean hurricane season from June to November, but many travelers still plan trips during these months to take advantage of low rates.

Lodging
A trio of upscale resorts dominate Virgin Gorda’s hotel scene. Each resort is unique in its setting and atmosphere, but all offer incomparable service and luxury – generally with a high price tag. Laurance Rockefeller developed the sophisticated Little Dix Bay (www.littledixbay.com) in the 1960s, and the resort is still lauded for its elegant and rustic style today. The Bitter End Yacht Club (www.beyc.com) is perfect for accomplished first mates or sailing protégées who want to learn the ropes. Biras Creek (www.biras.com) is a private retreat on the northern side of the island. It’s the most secluded of the resorts, accessible only by a quick private boat ride from the mainland, and the most intimate, with a full capacity at 60 guests. Less expensive accommodations are available around the island, including the vacation homes at Guavaberry Spring Bay (www.guavaberryspringbay.com) and the condos at Olde Yard Village (www.oldeyardvillage.com).

Cuisine
Classic Caribbean fare can be found around the island. Fish is usually the most requested menu item and can be prepared in dozens of ways. The most popular catches include red snapper, mahi mahi, wahoo, yellowtail and lobster. An island specialty is callaloo soup. It is made with leafy greens, okra and a selection of ingredients to the chef’s liking, conch and crab being the most popular. A variety of bars and casual restaurants can be found at the Baths. The bar at Mad Dog serves up tropical drinks with a fabulous view, while Poor Man’s Bar is a beachside bar offering drinks, sandwiches and snacks at the Baths. The Rock Café and Top of the Baths offer great views and more formal indoor and outdoor dining with more extensive menus.

Travel Tips
To make the most of your time visiting the Baths, do your best to avoid the crowds, which reach their peak between 10 a.m. and 4 p.m.

While You are Here
Spring Bay can be reached by the series of trails that stretch out from the Baths. Large boulders form more coves and hidden grottos along the beach. Bring along your snorkel and a pair of flippers and explore the calm, fish-filled waters.

Take in a different view of Virgin Gorda from the highest point on the island at Gorda Peak National Park, on the northern part of the island. The trek to the top of the mountain is about 30 minutes and offers a nice view of the chain of islands below.

Enjoy the Allure of Island Luxury
By Jennifer Plum Auvil and Valerie Conners

Overview

In 1956, tycoon Laurance Rockefeller purchased a large portion of St. John and turned it into a national park to preserve the beauty of the island. Today, the smallest of the three U.S. Virgin Islands, St. John is 28 square miles – almost two-thirds of which is designated as a U.S. national park. As other islands in the Caribbean become overdeveloped with super-size resorts and tourist attractions, St. John remains remarkably untouched – a trait that only increases its lure.

There are two main resorts on the island, and a number of smaller accommodations classified as eco-tourism sites, meaning they are earth-friendly and typically powered by the wind and sun. These unique resorts are affordable and comfortable, offering privacy and a sense of peace. Simplicity aside, St. John sure doesn’t skimp when it comes to great food and ambiance. There are excellent restaurants both at the resorts and in the colorful town of Cruz Bay, where the tiny streets house four-star establishments offering gourmet meals in a barefoot setting – you may have the urge to dress up for dinner, but leave your shoes behind!

There are a number of beaches on St. John, from the long sandy stretch of Cinnamon Bay to the more secluded Hawksnest Beach, Lameshur Bay and Salt Pond Bay. You may wish to explore them all or to pick your favorite on your first day of vacation, leaving your station only to eat and sleep. The beauty of St. John is there is no pressure to do anything on the island, except relax and enjoy the scenery. Oh, and of course, to snorkel, as the waters here are some of the clearest on any of the islands and home to schools of bright multicolored fish and meandering sea turtles. The sister U.S. Virgin Islands, as well as the nearby British Virgin Islands, are easily accessible by boat and make a great day trip to check out what’s happening nearby. These islands are a little more fast-paced and house a variety of shops, restaurants and cultural attractions. That is, if you’re able to tear yourself away from St. John, where it’s easy to adapt to life on island time and difficult to leave.

Best on the Beach
Caneel Bay Resort
Where: P.O. Box 720, St. John, U.S.V.I., 00831-0720
Phone: (340) 776-6111
Web site: www.caneelbay.com
Rates: $350 to $1,050
The Rosewood Caneel Bay Resort is a perfect Zen hideaway, blending undisputed elegance and comfort with a quiet sense of peace, right down to television-free rooms. With the resort’s seven secluded beaches and 170 acres of lush tropical fauna, the buildings blend into the background and nature takes her rightful place center stage. The service is personal and the friendly knock at the door that serves as the morning wake-up call is more than a reminder to rise – it invites guests to get up and enjoy the watercolor classes, kayak tours, an underwater session with the “snorkologist,” tai chi classes and, of course, the beach.

Best Luxury
Westin Resort St. John
Where: Rte. 104, Great Cruz Bay, St. John
Phone: 1-888-627-7206; 340-693-8000
Web site: www.westinresortstjohn.com
Rates: $299 to $1,589; rates vary seasonally
Those visitors attracted to the pristine beaches and rugged wildlife of St. John, but not interested in roughing it, will find supreme comfort in the trademark Heavenly Bed at the Westin Resort. Some may argue that this resort goes against the simple, laid-back beauty of the island, but many visitors find a piece of paradise here with golf, tennis, fine dining and spacious rooms. The Westin Kid’s Club will keep the wee ones busy, and there is still plenty of time to hike, snorkel and explore the hidden beauty of St. John.

Best Beachfront Camping
Cinnamon Bay Campground
Where: P.O. Box 720, Cruz Bay
Phone: 340-776-6330
Web site: www.cinnamonbay.com
Rates: $27 for bare sites; $58-$80 for tents; $70 to $140 for cottages
Maintained by the National Park Service, Cinnamon Bay is a true “camper’s campground,” featuring beachfront campsites enclosed in a border of tropical wilderness. Cinnamon provides varied levels of comfort, with a choice of cottages with twin beds, tent sites or bare sites perfect for those diehards who bring their own high-tech camping gear. The cottages and tent sites provide fresh linens and cooking supplies, making packing a little lighter, and the cottages also offer cooking facilities. The Tree Lizards Restaurant is a great place to meet other campers, as are the on-site activities that make this campground feel like an intimate village – a good thing when you’re sharing a bathroom with your neighbors.

Most Original
Maho Bay Camps
Phone: 1-800-392-9004
Web site: www.maho.org
Rates: $75 to $125
Welcome nature lovers and enviromentalists – Maho Bay Camps proves that a Caribbean vacation doesn’t have to equal high-rise hotels and lavish spending. A model of eco-tourism, the Maho Bay Camps contains 114 wood-frame tent cottages that are comfortable and uncluttered. Even non-campers will feel at home and sleep peacefully, thanks to the combination of the gentle night air that rustles the wall-size screens and the clear conscience from staying at this charming, environmentally-friendly hideaway.

Best Oceanside Fine Dining
Caneel Bay Beach Terrace Dining Room
Where: Caneel Bay Hotel, P.O. Box 720, St. John, U.S.V.I., 00831-0720
Phone: (340) 776-6111
Web site: www.caneelbay.com/dine4.cfm
Mere steps from the beach, this is just one of the restaurants at Caneel Bay Resort that serves up supremely tasty food in a striking setting. The terrace serves a daily lunch buffet ($27), but the grande dame of this eatery is the Grande Buffet ($65), which is offered once a week. It’s hard not to stuff yourself on the fresh seafood, elaborate entrees and decadent desserts – and the perfect finale is simple; just sit back and watch the waves roll out to the bay.

Best Caribbean Food
Miss Lucy’s
Where: Salt Pond Road, near Estate Concordia, Coral Bay
Phone: (340) 693-5244
Miss Lucy plays a hard-to-forget role in the interesting cast of characters around the island. Not only is she the legendary “first female taxi driver” around town, today she is certainly the “host with the most” at the restaurant that bears her name. Specialties include a spicy West Indian stew of okra and greens called callaloo, conch fritters and fresh fish, all enjoyed with a classic side dish of cornmeal and okra known as fungi. Miss Lucy puts together an unforgettable Sunday brunch, and for those lucky enough to be around for a full moon, she also throws mysterious full-moon parties to celebrate the gleaming Caribbean moon with a roast-suckling pig.

Best Casual Bar
Shipwreck Landing
Where: 34 Freeman’s Ground, Rte. 107, Coral Bay
Phone: (340) 693-5640
Celebrate happy hour with a frozen tropical drink and burger or fresh blackened snapper sandwich at a table overlooking the sea at Shipwreck Landing. Nothing is fancy here – from the food to the atmosphere to the clientele – and it offers a great taste of island life. Wednesday nights feature live entertainment, with local bands playing old favorites or peppy jazz.

Best Elegant Dining
Asolare
Where: Cruz Bay
Phone: (340) 779-4747
Situated atop a hill overlooking Cruz Bay and the neighboring British Virgin Islands, Asolare is the best choice for an elegant meal in the center of St. John. While the French and Asian cuisine is so tasty it could come straight from an upscale New York kitchen, this is not your typical city restaurant – Asolare maintains the island’s leisurely vibe, allowing diners to enjoy their meal in an unrushed, relaxed setting.

The Beach That’s Prettiest in Pink
By Jenn Plum

When many people think of the Bahamas, the first thing that comes to mind is the stretch of fancy resorts and casinos that line the beaches of Nassau, Paradise Island and Cable Beach. Many of the smaller islands of the Bahamas, like Harbour Island, break that stereotype. Pink Sands Beach is the place to go for natural beauty, elegant resorts and most importantly, three miles of perfectly pink sand and gentle waters. The ocean is ideal for swimming – warm throughout the year and generally calm, protected from the rolling waves of the Atlantic by a coral reef.

The vibe is laid-back, and around the island you will find tourists mingling with the locals in a relaxed and friendly small-town manner. However, don’t mistake laid-back for rustic: the unique resorts and hotels offer privacy in tropical hideaways, ranging from the luxurious to the simply charming. Here, the perfect day starts stretched out on a chaise lounge on the coral sands and ends on the turquoise bay, where you’ll want to snag a table at one of the bayside restaurants early to celebrate the sunset. How you fill the hours in between the sunrise and the glorious sunset is up to you! Go for a snorkel; navigate your own walking tour around town; visit a straw market; test your fishing skills catching bonefish; or keep the day’s main event island-appropriate, i.e., slather on more sunscreen and settle back in your chaise lounge until it’s time for another sunset and a steamy plate of cracked conch.

Getting There
Nearest Major International Airport: Visitors can get a flight from Nassau, Bahamas (30 minutes), or Fort Lauderdale or Miami, Fla. (1 1/2 hours), to the North Eleuthera Airstrip. From this small airport, visitors can take a taxi to the ferry dock and catch a boat to out-of-the-way Harbour Island.

Ground Transportation
As the island is small, most travel around Harbour Island can be done on foot. Some visitors may want to rent bicycles or electric golf carts — most hotels can arrange for these rentals.

Timing
The Bahamas is blessed with good weather most of the year, and for the most part, water sports and activities abound on Harbour Island year-round. The best time of year to visit is from December to May when the temperature hovers around 70-75 degrees F. Tropical storms are a possibility during the rest of the year, when the weather is warmer and the climate more humid.

Lodging
The lodging here may be less commercial than what you will find on the main destination islands in the Bahamas, but that doesn’t mean it is not as glamorous. The hip and sophisticated Pink Sands Resort (toll-free: 1-800-688-7678; or: +1 (242) 333-2030) lures many celebrities to its prime location on the beach and offers airy suites and cottages and gourmet meals included in the equally extravagant price. The neighboring Dunmore Beach Club (toll-free: 1-877-891-3100; or: +1 (242) 333-2200) is like an older and more elegant sibling to the Pink Sands, offering a posh and snazzy setting – jackets are required to enjoy dinner at the clubhouse. The Coral Sands Hotel (toll-free: 1-800-468-2799; or: +1 (242) 333-2350) is a good choice for families and couples looking for a luxurious retreat at more reasonable prices.

Cuisine
Conch is king in the Bahamas, and in the tiny town of Harbour Island, diners may be surprised by the number of creative conch dishes that are cooked up by local chefs. The Poseidon (+1 (242) 333-2350), at the Coral Sands Hotel, is touted as one of the best restaurants in the Bahamas, and serves up its famed White Conch Chowder. Angela’s Starfish Restaurant (+1 (242) 333-2253) is where the locals go to enjoy cracked conch and other comfort foods including chicken potpie. Various takeaway stands on the island offer authentic and inexpensive treats like conch burgers, conch salad and, for the non-seafood eaters, salads, burgers and sandwiches, which are perfect for a simple picnic lunch.

Travel Tips
The laid-back, noncommercial feeling of Harbour Island is a welcome vacation for many, but keep in mind that small islands generally do not offer the same wealth of organized activities available at larger resorts, especially for children — be prepared to relax and create your own fun.

While You Are There
Harbour Island serves as the perfect outpost for a SCUBA diver’s paradise. From Eleuthera, divers can explore wrecks along the Devil’s Backbone, and even the rare underwater remains of a train wreck. Also, check out Seagrapes on Colebrook Street for some live Bahamian music, or venture into the local dive, the Vic-Hum Club. Though the club’s appearance may be intimidating, the locals’ friendliness and a tasty rum punch are more than welcoming.

Visit this Picturesque Coral Island

Jennifer Plum Auvil

Overview
Barbados is a distinctive island, both in its natural beauty and fun-loving culture. This West Indies gem is actually a coral island. The sandy beaches are made up of pulverized coral, which makes for fine, soft sands. Just off the coast, there are coral reefs that tempt snorkelers and SCUBA divers with their exotic underwater life. The island of Barbados is divided into 11 parishes, each with its own collection of beaches, hotels and tourist attractions. Almost all of the beaches lining the island’s coast are perfect, with fine stretches of sand and warm aquamarine waters. The beaches along the island’s south coast stretch out for miles with little interruption. One of the finest on the island is Bottom Bay, a tiny haven on the southern part of the island.

Bottom Bay has a picture-perfect setting with its wide, bright white beach framed by tall coral cliffs. It’s a great place for a long, lazy beach day or a late-day picnic underneath the swaying coconut palm trees. Swimming is not advisable, however, as the waves create a strong current. The good news is there are plenty of nearby beaches with the perfect blend of waves and currents to please surfers, boogie boarders and even plain, old swimmers. Crane Beach is known for its great waves, and the waters are filled with surfers and even some body surfers, though again the rough waters are appropriate only for strong swimmers.

Bottom Bay is in a quiet part of town, but nearby Christ Church and St. Michael parishes provide a little more action. St. Lawrence Gap is packed with restaurants and bars that fill up with a happening night-life scene. The capital Bridgetown is known for its pricey resorts and busy streets – visiting cruise ships dock here, making the area a little congested. But no worries – if the crowds get to be too much when you’re out exploring, just hightail it back to Bottom Bay for more rest and relaxation.

Getting There
Nearest Major International Airport: There are many direct flights from the United States to the island’s Grantley Adams International Airport.

Ground Transportation: Most resorts and hotels will provide shuttle transportation to and from the airport, and sometimes even around the island to the tourist hot spots. Independent travelers who prefer to keep their own schedules can look into renting a car for the duration of their visit. Drivers must have an international license – or apply for a temporary permit – and they must be comfortable navigating the roads on the left side of the street. Cabs are another reliable way to get around the island. While there is a bus system, it’s not the best option for visitors as routes aren’t always clear and wait times can be long.

Timing
The weather is fairly typical of the Caribbean – nearly perfect all year long with temperatures ranging from 78 to 88 degrees Fahrenheit. The high season, when the prices reach their peak and tourists are aplenty, starts in mid-December and fizzles out in mid-April.

Lodging
The Crane Beach Resort (www.thecrane.com) is one of the area’s most famous hotels. Perched above the lovely Crane Beach, the resort was the first of its kind to be built in the Caribbean, back in 1887. Of course, there have been many renovations along the way to keep this island pearl modern, but the resort maintains its charm and romantic vibe that made it so popular. There are more hotels in the neighboring Christ Church parish. Little Arches (www.littlearches.com) is an intimate, luxurious boutique hotel with only 10 rooms on a great little beach. Silver Sands resort (silversandsbarbados.com) offers more basic accommodations and boasts a seaside spot at Silver Sands beach, the best place on the island for windsurfing. Further south in St. Lawrence Gap is the lively all-inclusive Turtle Bay Resort (www.turtlebeachresortbarbados.com), perfect for families traveling with little ones.

Cuisine
Dishing up everything from sushi to hamburgers, the restaurants around town show a continental flair in the kitchen. As with the rest of the Caribbean, seafood is always a popular menu item, whether it’s served raw in sushi or fried on a platter. If you try only one local Bajan dish, it should be flying fish, the island’s national dish and most recognizable symbol. The best place to hang with the locals and taste some real authentic cuisine is at the Friday night Oistins Fish Fry. This fishing market hosts a weekly street party where residents and visitors line up at food stalls to try fried flying-fish sandwiches, grilled dolphin fish and fish cakes while listening to live music. If rum isn’t your thing, try the local brew, Banks beer.

Travel Tips
The local branch of the tourism authority can be found on Harbour Road in Bridgetown.

Festival fans planning a summer visit may want to check out the island’s five-week-long Crop Over Festival, an old tradition with parades, parties and lots of calypso music.

While You Are Here
Want to find out what makes that piña colada so tasty? Join the Mount Gay Rum tour and learn about how they make this amber-colored goodness. After the tour, try some samples and pick up a bottle of your favorite kind at the on-site gift shop.

Immerse yourself in the British culture that permeates this island’s style. Check out Barbados’ national sport, cricket, by taking in a match at Kensington Oval, or indulge in a fancy afternoon tea.

Explore the Exquisite Mayan Ruins

By Valerie Conners

Overview

Sunbathers and swimmers indulging in a visit to Tulum Beach’s white, limestone sands and crystal blue waters need only look up in wonder at the ancient Mayan ruins – some from as early as A.D. 250 – dotting the cliffs above them to grasp the aura of ancient mystery that surrounds the beach.

Part of the gorgeous and increasingly popular Riviera Maya, Tulum sits 80 miles southeast of Cancun. The beach at the Tulum ruins and the beach just to the south, called Boca Paila, have luckily managed to escape the resort development permeating many of the other Riviera Maya beaches. The unspoiled beauty is marred only by the occasional drink stand or cabana, and is so private that clothing is optional.

The name “Tulum,” derived from the Mayan word for “wall,” and the ruins hovering over the beach, most notably the giant pyramid-shaped Castillo, have gained notoriety as one of the Mayan civilization’s only walled cities. In its heyday, Tulum served as a port of call for mariners and traders, and its walls defined the ancient town’s defense against invaders from sea and land.

Today, visitors from across the globe who vacation at Tulum experience one of Mexico’s finest beaches with an added bonus: the chance to admire the architecture of the ruins and feel the awe of this ancient and notoriously advanced civilization.

Getting There
The nearest international airport is in Cancun; shuttle service transports to Tulum can be arranged.

Airport Transportation
From Cancun International Airport the drive to Tulum takes two hours; the most convenient means of transportation from the airport to Tulum is via air-conditioned shuttle (www.travelyucatan.com), which costs approximately $35 per person one way or $70 per person round trip.

Timing
December through April is considered high season in the Yucatan, and crowds and prices peak during Christmas and spring break. Tulum’s tropical climate means more than 240 days of sunshine annually and average high temperatures in the mid-80s F with lows in the upper-60s F. Though rain is infrequent, September and October are the wettest months because of hurricane season; March and April are the driest.

Lodging
The Tulum ruins are some of the most frequently visited archaeological sites in Mexico, and a number of new hotels have sprung up in recent years to cater to the increase in tourism. Most hotels are located along a strip of beach coined the “Hotel Zone.” Visitors can choose among typical hotel accommodations and smaller, cabana-style hotels or campsites.

One of Tulum’s most unique and impressive lodgings is Azulik Villas (www.azulik.com), 15 private villas constructed of rich, local hardwoods and featuring carved tree-trunk bathtubs, in-room massages, aromatherapy and waterfront views.

Cuisine
With so many tourists from the United States and abroad, it’s little surprise that restaurant choices in Tulum Beach and Tulum Pueblo are gentrified, with an unusually large number of Italian establishments. Of course, it’s possible to find typical Mexican cuisine like seafood and tacos at restaurants or loncherias, such as the popular Ana y Jose or the vegetarian spot Maya Tulum.

Travel Tips
Mexico’s currency is the peso and exchange offices are easy to find, but U.S. dollars are accepted at many businesses. The closest banks are in Playa del Carmen. Visas are not required, nor are shots or vaccinations. Some tap water is safe, but to be sure, drink bottled water. For the most part Tulum is quite safe (aside from the occasional pickpocketing), but use common sense when out alone or at night. The tourist office is located next to the baseball fields on Avenida Tulum in Tulum Pueblo.

While You’re There
A trip to Tulum’s beach isn’t complete without visiting the ancient Mayan ruins that dot the cliffs above the water. Visitors can explore this ancient walled city and must visit the Castillo, or castle, the largest of the surviving structures. Other interesting structures include the Temple of the Descending God and the Temple of the Frescoes, with its walls of murals. The ruins are open daily from 8 a.m. to 7 p.m. in summer and from 7 a.m. to 6 p.m. in winter.

Visitors should also check out the cenotes, or freshwater pools, south of Tulum Pueblo. The pools are actually part of an underground network of rivers and caverns that once provided fresh water to the Mayans. It is possible explore the cenotes with a number of dive operators in town who offer snorkeling or scuba trips.