SunBeach Travel

Enjoy the Allure of Island Luxury
By Jennifer Plum Auvil and Valerie Conners

Overview

In 1956, tycoon Laurance Rockefeller purchased a large portion of St. John and turned it into a national park to preserve the beauty of the island. Today, the smallest of the three U.S. Virgin Islands, St. John is 28 square miles – almost two-thirds of which is designated as a U.S. national park. As other islands in the Caribbean become overdeveloped with super-size resorts and tourist attractions, St. John remains remarkably untouched – a trait that only increases its lure.

There are two main resorts on the island, and a number of smaller accommodations classified as eco-tourism sites, meaning they are earth-friendly and typically powered by the wind and sun. These unique resorts are affordable and comfortable, offering privacy and a sense of peace. Simplicity aside, St. John sure doesn’t skimp when it comes to great food and ambiance. There are excellent restaurants both at the resorts and in the colorful town of Cruz Bay, where the tiny streets house four-star establishments offering gourmet meals in a barefoot setting – you may have the urge to dress up for dinner, but leave your shoes behind!

There are a number of beaches on St. John, from the long sandy stretch of Cinnamon Bay to the more secluded Hawksnest Beach, Lameshur Bay and Salt Pond Bay. You may wish to explore them all or to pick your favorite on your first day of vacation, leaving your station only to eat and sleep. The beauty of St. John is there is no pressure to do anything on the island, except relax and enjoy the scenery. Oh, and of course, to snorkel, as the waters here are some of the clearest on any of the islands and home to schools of bright multicolored fish and meandering sea turtles. The sister U.S. Virgin Islands, as well as the nearby British Virgin Islands, are easily accessible by boat and make a great day trip to check out what’s happening nearby. These islands are a little more fast-paced and house a variety of shops, restaurants and cultural attractions. That is, if you’re able to tear yourself away from St. John, where it’s easy to adapt to life on island time and difficult to leave.

Best on the Beach
Caneel Bay Resort
Where: P.O. Box 720, St. John, U.S.V.I., 00831-0720
Phone: (340) 776-6111
Web site: www.caneelbay.com
Rates: $350 to $1,050
The Rosewood Caneel Bay Resort is a perfect Zen hideaway, blending undisputed elegance and comfort with a quiet sense of peace, right down to television-free rooms. With the resort’s seven secluded beaches and 170 acres of lush tropical fauna, the buildings blend into the background and nature takes her rightful place center stage. The service is personal and the friendly knock at the door that serves as the morning wake-up call is more than a reminder to rise – it invites guests to get up and enjoy the watercolor classes, kayak tours, an underwater session with the “snorkologist,” tai chi classes and, of course, the beach.

Best Luxury
Westin Resort St. John
Where: Rte. 104, Great Cruz Bay, St. John
Phone: 1-888-627-7206; 340-693-8000
Web site: www.westinresortstjohn.com
Rates: $299 to $1,589; rates vary seasonally
Those visitors attracted to the pristine beaches and rugged wildlife of St. John, but not interested in roughing it, will find supreme comfort in the trademark Heavenly Bed at the Westin Resort. Some may argue that this resort goes against the simple, laid-back beauty of the island, but many visitors find a piece of paradise here with golf, tennis, fine dining and spacious rooms. The Westin Kid’s Club will keep the wee ones busy, and there is still plenty of time to hike, snorkel and explore the hidden beauty of St. John.

Best Beachfront Camping
Cinnamon Bay Campground
Where: P.O. Box 720, Cruz Bay
Phone: 340-776-6330
Web site: www.cinnamonbay.com
Rates: $27 for bare sites; $58-$80 for tents; $70 to $140 for cottages
Maintained by the National Park Service, Cinnamon Bay is a true “camper’s campground,” featuring beachfront campsites enclosed in a border of tropical wilderness. Cinnamon provides varied levels of comfort, with a choice of cottages with twin beds, tent sites or bare sites perfect for those diehards who bring their own high-tech camping gear. The cottages and tent sites provide fresh linens and cooking supplies, making packing a little lighter, and the cottages also offer cooking facilities. The Tree Lizards Restaurant is a great place to meet other campers, as are the on-site activities that make this campground feel like an intimate village – a good thing when you’re sharing a bathroom with your neighbors.

Most Original
Maho Bay Camps
Phone: 1-800-392-9004
Web site: www.maho.org
Rates: $75 to $125
Welcome nature lovers and enviromentalists – Maho Bay Camps proves that a Caribbean vacation doesn’t have to equal high-rise hotels and lavish spending. A model of eco-tourism, the Maho Bay Camps contains 114 wood-frame tent cottages that are comfortable and uncluttered. Even non-campers will feel at home and sleep peacefully, thanks to the combination of the gentle night air that rustles the wall-size screens and the clear conscience from staying at this charming, environmentally-friendly hideaway.

Best Oceanside Fine Dining
Caneel Bay Beach Terrace Dining Room
Where: Caneel Bay Hotel, P.O. Box 720, St. John, U.S.V.I., 00831-0720
Phone: (340) 776-6111
Web site: www.caneelbay.com/dine4.cfm
Mere steps from the beach, this is just one of the restaurants at Caneel Bay Resort that serves up supremely tasty food in a striking setting. The terrace serves a daily lunch buffet ($27), but the grande dame of this eatery is the Grande Buffet ($65), which is offered once a week. It’s hard not to stuff yourself on the fresh seafood, elaborate entrees and decadent desserts – and the perfect finale is simple; just sit back and watch the waves roll out to the bay.

Best Caribbean Food
Miss Lucy’s
Where: Salt Pond Road, near Estate Concordia, Coral Bay
Phone: (340) 693-5244
Miss Lucy plays a hard-to-forget role in the interesting cast of characters around the island. Not only is she the legendary “first female taxi driver” around town, today she is certainly the “host with the most” at the restaurant that bears her name. Specialties include a spicy West Indian stew of okra and greens called callaloo, conch fritters and fresh fish, all enjoyed with a classic side dish of cornmeal and okra known as fungi. Miss Lucy puts together an unforgettable Sunday brunch, and for those lucky enough to be around for a full moon, she also throws mysterious full-moon parties to celebrate the gleaming Caribbean moon with a roast-suckling pig.

Best Casual Bar
Shipwreck Landing
Where: 34 Freeman’s Ground, Rte. 107, Coral Bay
Phone: (340) 693-5640
Celebrate happy hour with a frozen tropical drink and burger or fresh blackened snapper sandwich at a table overlooking the sea at Shipwreck Landing. Nothing is fancy here – from the food to the atmosphere to the clientele – and it offers a great taste of island life. Wednesday nights feature live entertainment, with local bands playing old favorites or peppy jazz.

Best Elegant Dining
Asolare
Where: Cruz Bay
Phone: (340) 779-4747
Situated atop a hill overlooking Cruz Bay and the neighboring British Virgin Islands, Asolare is the best choice for an elegant meal in the center of St. John. While the French and Asian cuisine is so tasty it could come straight from an upscale New York kitchen, this is not your typical city restaurant – Asolare maintains the island’s leisurely vibe, allowing diners to enjoy their meal in an unrushed, relaxed setting.

The Beach That’s Prettiest in Pink
By Jenn Plum

When many people think of the Bahamas, the first thing that comes to mind is the stretch of fancy resorts and casinos that line the beaches of Nassau, Paradise Island and Cable Beach. Many of the smaller islands of the Bahamas, like Harbour Island, break that stereotype. Pink Sands Beach is the place to go for natural beauty, elegant resorts and most importantly, three miles of perfectly pink sand and gentle waters. The ocean is ideal for swimming – warm throughout the year and generally calm, protected from the rolling waves of the Atlantic by a coral reef.

The vibe is laid-back, and around the island you will find tourists mingling with the locals in a relaxed and friendly small-town manner. However, don’t mistake laid-back for rustic: the unique resorts and hotels offer privacy in tropical hideaways, ranging from the luxurious to the simply charming. Here, the perfect day starts stretched out on a chaise lounge on the coral sands and ends on the turquoise bay, where you’ll want to snag a table at one of the bayside restaurants early to celebrate the sunset. How you fill the hours in between the sunrise and the glorious sunset is up to you! Go for a snorkel; navigate your own walking tour around town; visit a straw market; test your fishing skills catching bonefish; or keep the day’s main event island-appropriate, i.e., slather on more sunscreen and settle back in your chaise lounge until it’s time for another sunset and a steamy plate of cracked conch.

Getting There
Nearest Major International Airport: Visitors can get a flight from Nassau, Bahamas (30 minutes), or Fort Lauderdale or Miami, Fla. (1 1/2 hours), to the North Eleuthera Airstrip. From this small airport, visitors can take a taxi to the ferry dock and catch a boat to out-of-the-way Harbour Island.

Ground Transportation
As the island is small, most travel around Harbour Island can be done on foot. Some visitors may want to rent bicycles or electric golf carts — most hotels can arrange for these rentals.

Timing
The Bahamas is blessed with good weather most of the year, and for the most part, water sports and activities abound on Harbour Island year-round. The best time of year to visit is from December to May when the temperature hovers around 70-75 degrees F. Tropical storms are a possibility during the rest of the year, when the weather is warmer and the climate more humid.

Lodging
The lodging here may be less commercial than what you will find on the main destination islands in the Bahamas, but that doesn’t mean it is not as glamorous. The hip and sophisticated Pink Sands Resort (toll-free: 1-800-688-7678; or: +1 (242) 333-2030) lures many celebrities to its prime location on the beach and offers airy suites and cottages and gourmet meals included in the equally extravagant price. The neighboring Dunmore Beach Club (toll-free: 1-877-891-3100; or: +1 (242) 333-2200) is like an older and more elegant sibling to the Pink Sands, offering a posh and snazzy setting – jackets are required to enjoy dinner at the clubhouse. The Coral Sands Hotel (toll-free: 1-800-468-2799; or: +1 (242) 333-2350) is a good choice for families and couples looking for a luxurious retreat at more reasonable prices.

Cuisine
Conch is king in the Bahamas, and in the tiny town of Harbour Island, diners may be surprised by the number of creative conch dishes that are cooked up by local chefs. The Poseidon (+1 (242) 333-2350), at the Coral Sands Hotel, is touted as one of the best restaurants in the Bahamas, and serves up its famed White Conch Chowder. Angela’s Starfish Restaurant (+1 (242) 333-2253) is where the locals go to enjoy cracked conch and other comfort foods including chicken potpie. Various takeaway stands on the island offer authentic and inexpensive treats like conch burgers, conch salad and, for the non-seafood eaters, salads, burgers and sandwiches, which are perfect for a simple picnic lunch.

Travel Tips
The laid-back, noncommercial feeling of Harbour Island is a welcome vacation for many, but keep in mind that small islands generally do not offer the same wealth of organized activities available at larger resorts, especially for children — be prepared to relax and create your own fun.

While You Are There
Harbour Island serves as the perfect outpost for a SCUBA diver’s paradise. From Eleuthera, divers can explore wrecks along the Devil’s Backbone, and even the rare underwater remains of a train wreck. Also, check out Seagrapes on Colebrook Street for some live Bahamian music, or venture into the local dive, the Vic-Hum Club. Though the club’s appearance may be intimidating, the locals’ friendliness and a tasty rum punch are more than welcoming.

A revitalized hotel scene in the Caribbean is making waves.

By Joshua Pramis

Caribbean hotels have always been a reliable standby for tranquility, crystal-clear ocean views, and amazing beaches. But now, many of the tropical islands are seeing fresher, chicer hotels sprouting up, bringing a new level of luxury to the entire region.

Take the Seven Stars Resort in Turks and Caicos, where even the smallest room—a one-bedroom studio—is a spacious 620 square feet. It’s plenty of room to fit a kitchen, which each room has—from a galley in the studios to a gourmet kitchen in the Presidential Suite. But if en-suite cooking isn’t what you had in mind, the resort’s restaurant, La Pergola, offers an array of international cuisines as well as Caribbean-inspired dishes. And to rub away the last vestiges of home, the on-property spa offers a wide range of treatments, including the option for in-room treatments and poolside massages.

If the Grenadines are your destination of choice, head to tiny Bequia and the even-smaller Firefly Hotel, which has just eight rooms. The resort overlooks 30 acres of vegetation—including the only banana plantation on the island—and a short trek through the on-property coconut grove will lead you to a secluded white sand beach (hint: the snorkeling gets rave reviews). For an off-property excursion, check out the old-school Caribbean look and feel of the island’s many shops and restaurants, where you can order anything from burgers and pizza to Caribbean classics like roti and callaloo.

Then there’s the classic Puerto Rican escape, La Concha. Built in 1958, the hotel just reopened after a $220 million renovation, bringing a modern, soothing look and feel to its public areas and 248 guest rooms, most of which offer an ocean view. For dinner, stop by the hotel’s signature clam-shaped, poolside restaurant, Perla, where you can indulge on contemporary American seafood dishes. Take advantage of the restaurant’s 4,000-bottle wine cellar, but don’t feel overwhelmed—the service staff attends weekly wine lessons taught by the restaurant’s chef, Dayn Smith, and can assist with your selection.

These are just three of the hotels making noise in the Caribbean.

Visit this Picturesque Coral Island

Jennifer Plum Auvil

Overview
Barbados is a distinctive island, both in its natural beauty and fun-loving culture. This West Indies gem is actually a coral island. The sandy beaches are made up of pulverized coral, which makes for fine, soft sands. Just off the coast, there are coral reefs that tempt snorkelers and SCUBA divers with their exotic underwater life. The island of Barbados is divided into 11 parishes, each with its own collection of beaches, hotels and tourist attractions. Almost all of the beaches lining the island’s coast are perfect, with fine stretches of sand and warm aquamarine waters. The beaches along the island’s south coast stretch out for miles with little interruption. One of the finest on the island is Bottom Bay, a tiny haven on the southern part of the island.

Bottom Bay has a picture-perfect setting with its wide, bright white beach framed by tall coral cliffs. It’s a great place for a long, lazy beach day or a late-day picnic underneath the swaying coconut palm trees. Swimming is not advisable, however, as the waves create a strong current. The good news is there are plenty of nearby beaches with the perfect blend of waves and currents to please surfers, boogie boarders and even plain, old swimmers. Crane Beach is known for its great waves, and the waters are filled with surfers and even some body surfers, though again the rough waters are appropriate only for strong swimmers.

Bottom Bay is in a quiet part of town, but nearby Christ Church and St. Michael parishes provide a little more action. St. Lawrence Gap is packed with restaurants and bars that fill up with a happening night-life scene. The capital Bridgetown is known for its pricey resorts and busy streets – visiting cruise ships dock here, making the area a little congested. But no worries – if the crowds get to be too much when you’re out exploring, just hightail it back to Bottom Bay for more rest and relaxation.

Getting There
Nearest Major International Airport: There are many direct flights from the United States to the island’s Grantley Adams International Airport.

Ground Transportation: Most resorts and hotels will provide shuttle transportation to and from the airport, and sometimes even around the island to the tourist hot spots. Independent travelers who prefer to keep their own schedules can look into renting a car for the duration of their visit. Drivers must have an international license – or apply for a temporary permit – and they must be comfortable navigating the roads on the left side of the street. Cabs are another reliable way to get around the island. While there is a bus system, it’s not the best option for visitors as routes aren’t always clear and wait times can be long.

Timing
The weather is fairly typical of the Caribbean – nearly perfect all year long with temperatures ranging from 78 to 88 degrees Fahrenheit. The high season, when the prices reach their peak and tourists are aplenty, starts in mid-December and fizzles out in mid-April.

Lodging
The Crane Beach Resort (www.thecrane.com) is one of the area’s most famous hotels. Perched above the lovely Crane Beach, the resort was the first of its kind to be built in the Caribbean, back in 1887. Of course, there have been many renovations along the way to keep this island pearl modern, but the resort maintains its charm and romantic vibe that made it so popular. There are more hotels in the neighboring Christ Church parish. Little Arches (www.littlearches.com) is an intimate, luxurious boutique hotel with only 10 rooms on a great little beach. Silver Sands resort (silversandsbarbados.com) offers more basic accommodations and boasts a seaside spot at Silver Sands beach, the best place on the island for windsurfing. Further south in St. Lawrence Gap is the lively all-inclusive Turtle Bay Resort (www.turtlebeachresortbarbados.com), perfect for families traveling with little ones.

Cuisine
Dishing up everything from sushi to hamburgers, the restaurants around town show a continental flair in the kitchen. As with the rest of the Caribbean, seafood is always a popular menu item, whether it’s served raw in sushi or fried on a platter. If you try only one local Bajan dish, it should be flying fish, the island’s national dish and most recognizable symbol. The best place to hang with the locals and taste some real authentic cuisine is at the Friday night Oistins Fish Fry. This fishing market hosts a weekly street party where residents and visitors line up at food stalls to try fried flying-fish sandwiches, grilled dolphin fish and fish cakes while listening to live music. If rum isn’t your thing, try the local brew, Banks beer.

Travel Tips
The local branch of the tourism authority can be found on Harbour Road in Bridgetown.

Festival fans planning a summer visit may want to check out the island’s five-week-long Crop Over Festival, an old tradition with parades, parties and lots of calypso music.

While You Are Here
Want to find out what makes that piña colada so tasty? Join the Mount Gay Rum tour and learn about how they make this amber-colored goodness. After the tour, try some samples and pick up a bottle of your favorite kind at the on-site gift shop.

Immerse yourself in the British culture that permeates this island’s style. Check out Barbados’ national sport, cricket, by taking in a match at Kensington Oval, or indulge in a fancy afternoon tea.

Discover The Caribbean’s Secret Gem
By Jennifer Plum Auvil

Overview
Once a secret hideaway, Anguilla has come into its own as a Caribbean hot spot for Hollywood starlets and honeymooners alike. But don’t let Anguilla’s popularity scare you away: it is certainly well deserved, as proven by this island’s beautiful beaches, posh resorts and overall laid-back charm. There are 33 beaches on this 16-mile stretch of island, and the best part is that they are all open to the public. This is truly a dream for beach hoppers looking to check out a few sandy shores before settling down on one. One of the most popular beaches is Shoal Bay, a 2-mile strip of pearly-white sand on the Atlantic side that has a convenient equipment rental on site for visitors. Rendezvous Bay is another gem, renowned for its stunning seascape and shallow, family-friendly water. With the powdery beaches and tranquil atmosphere, most visitors will find it hard to peel their bodies off their beachside lounge chair. However, there is plenty to explore both on land and under the sea. The island’s coral reefs provide snorkeling fans with the perfect backdrop of vivid coral gardens, bright schools of fish and low-gliding stingrays. At Stoney Bay Marine Park there is a sunken Spanish ship dating back to the 18th century that is an underwater treasure trove for scuba enthusiasts. But, really, if you just want to pull that beach chair under a palm tree and spend the day staring out at the azure waters, no one is going to argue with that.

Getting There
Nearest Major International Airport: While visitors cannot get a direct flight from North America, Anguilla is a short flight from other Caribbean destinations. Most flights connect through San Juan or St. Maarten to Wallblake airport. Island hoppers can also take a ferry from St. Martin to the Blowing Point ferry terminal.

Ground Transportation: The best way to get around the island is by cab. But for those diehard explorers who wish to trek around the island without a schedule, a rental car is a great option. However, drivers must apply for a temporary license and, keeping to Anguilla’s British ties, keep on the left side of the road.

Timing
As the temperatures drop in the winter, tourism booms in the Caribbean. Anguilla is no exception to this rule. The high season runs from December through April, and visitors can expect the prices to go up during this time. The average monthly temperature hovers around a very pleasant 80 F.

Lodging
A trip to Anguilla’s famed beaches does come at a cost – and a high one at that. The island’s popularity has exploded in recent years, thanks to vacationing movie stars and plenty of media attention, and of course, those stunning beaches. The grand dame of the beach is surely Cap Juluca (1-888-858-5822, 264-497-6666) with its striking Moorish buildings, secluded rooms and some of the island’s best beaches. The prices at CuisinArt Resort and Spa (1-800-943-3210, 264-498-2000) may be steep, but foodies will surely overlook the expense once they get a tour or the resort’s awesome hydroponic farm and enroll in cooking classes at the gorgeous stadium kitchen. The Arawak Beach Inn (1-877-427-2925, 264-497-4888) on Island Harbour Beach has 17 pastel beach bungalows that fit the bill for budget-conscious travelers. Many of the rooms are equipped with kitchens to help cut costs even further. On the opposite extreme there are private villas, where the island’s wealthiest visitors relax and unwind – for a mere $30,000 a week and up. Visitors looking for the atmosphere of a private home at a lower cost should consider the resort at Covecastles (1-800-223-1108, 264-497-6801). Prices begin at $1,095 a day.

Cuisine
The island’s culinary specialties include spiny lobster and other treats from the sea as well as traditional dishes made with goat. Many of the island’s best restaurants come with a view of the water and a high price. The most romantic dinner might be served at Malliouhana Restaurant (264-497-6111); its sweeping ocean views and dreamy candlelit setting provide the ideal backdrop for an elegant French meal. The meals at Blanchard’s (264-497-6100) can tempt even the most sophisticated palate, and the restaurant’s downplayed elegance can’t be beat. The tiny cottage that is home to Hibernia (264-497-4290) only has room for 11 tables, making it a great choice for an intimate and creative epicurean adventure. Finally, for diners looking to keep the tab under $100 and the atmosphere casual, Ripples (264-497-3380) and The Pumphouse Bar & Grill (264-497-5154) fit the bill.

Travel Tips
The rest of the world has caught on to this not-so-secret hideaway, and Anguilla’s resorts are considered to be some of the best in the entire Caribbean. This means that it’s important to book early so that rooms aren’t filled up. Also, many of the island’s resorts shut down for the months of September and October, so plan accordingly.

While You’re There
Put on some dark shades and pretend you’re dodging the paparazzi like the rest of the Hollywood stars enjoying cocktails and live music at the beach bar at Johnno’s (264-497-2728).

Hail a boat from the dock at Island Harbour and get onboard for the three-minute boat ride to Scilly Cay (264-497-5123). This private island is a great pick for sunbathing, snorkeling and feasting on the grilled lobster and infamous rum punch.

Shopaholics take note: A 20-minute ferry ride will take you to French St. Martin for an afternoon of browsing and bargaining at that island’s many shops.