SunBeach Travel

Sip rum-laden Killer Bees at this affordable restaurant. The outdoor tables at this laid-back spot are an ideal place for watching the fiery sun drop behind he green hills of St. Kitts. On Nevis, next door to Four Seasons.

The Caribbean islands are famous for their sunshine—and rightly so. Is there anything more daydream-worthy, more symbolic of languor and ease, than those ubiquitous images of sugary white beaches, dappled palms, and turquoise lagoons sparkling in the sun?

Sunsets in the Caribbean don’t get nearly as much attention. But they should. Those gorgeous stretches of sand and sea (well, at least the western-facing ones) are every bit as spectacular in the light of the setting sun, with Easter egg–colored clouds floating overhead. Especially when you have someone to share them with.

For centuries, sunsets—particularly sunsets over the sea—have inspired romantic musings. In his epic poem Evangeline (published in 1847) Henry Wadsworth Longfellow put it like this:

Softly the evening came. The sun from the western horizon Like a magician extended his golden want o’er the landscape; Trinkling vapors arose; and sky and water and forest Seemed all on fire at the touch, and melted and mingled together.

With all that melting and mingling and fiery touching, it’s no wonder so many sunset-watching spots seem custom-tailored for couples. Grand Cayman’s Seven Mile Beach, for example—though public, and actually closer to five-and-a-half miles—is long enough that starry-eyed duos find plenty of space for intimate evening strolls or picnics. And at St. Lucia’s Jade Mountain resort, honeymooners (or wannabes) can soak together in private infinity pools—some as large as 900 square feet—while watching the sun go down.

In the Caribbean, though, romance doesn’t always have to mean seclusion. It’s hard not to have an enchanted evening at Jamaica’s famous Rick’s Café, for instance—lingering on the cliffside terrace for grilled seafood and Tropitinis, then dancing to live reggae music as the sun dips low. The same can be said for gathering among island locals on Antigua’s highest hill, Shirley Heights, with its sunset views over sweeping beaches and sailboats bobbing at anchor.

Of course, each one of these spots can be the perfect setting for romance—as long as you bring the right person. But that’s not up to the islands; that’s up to you.

Peter Island Resort, Peter Island

Every evening, this resort runs a “Sunset at the Loop” tour for guests. Participants are taken to an overlook of Deadman’s Bay on the west side of the island and plied with hors d’oeuvres and bubbly while they watch the sun set over neighboring St. John.

Mount Sage National Park, Tortola

Set within a tropical refuge, the Mahogany Trail winds a quick 300 yards up to the summit of Mount Sage. At 1,716 feet, it’s the highest point in the Virgin Islands—and the best place to watch the sun set.

Jade Mountain, St. Lucia

From this resort’s west-facing rooms you’ll see the sky’s red-orange hues reflecting off the Caribbean; upgrade to a suite and you’ll get a panoramic lookout from a private infinity pool.

Boqueron Beach, Puerto Rico

Head to this mile-long stretch of white sand on Puerto Rico’s southwestern coast—and keep your eyes peeled for the famed “green flash,” (caused by refracted light rays) right before the sun disappears below the horizon.

On the Rocks restaurant at Eden Rock Hotel, St. Bart’s

From the open-air deck of this French restaurant overlooking St. John’s Bay, you’ll have a front-row seat for both the sunset and the schools of parrot fish that dart beneath the surface of the sea.

Sunshine’s Grill, Nevis

The outdoor tables at this laid-back spot on Pinney’s Beach are an ideal place for watching the sun drop behind the green hills of St. Kitts (and for sipping some locally famous “Killer Bee” rum punch).

Landfall Park, San Salvador, Bahamas

A simple stone cross at Fernandez Bay, on San Salvador’s west coast, commemorates Christopher Columbus’s first landfall in the New World. Many a visitor has snapped the sun setting into the water with the monument in the foreground.

Seven Mile Beach, Grand Cayman

Though it’s actually a little less than six miles long, this powdery crescent on Grand Cayman’s western coast has plenty of room to spread out a blanket for a sunset picnic.

Rick’s Café, Jamaica

This bar and café perched on Negril’s West End Cliffs is famous for the spectacular sunset-viewing from its expansive terrace—and also for the wild after-dark parties that spill onto the beach below.

Shirley Heights, Antigua

From the highest point in Antigua—where the remains of General Shirley’s 17th-century fort still stand—the sun sets beautifully over English Harbour and Galleon Beach. Go on a Sunday night and you’ll meet locals who gather there for a regular sunset party.

Though it’s actually a little less than six miles long, this powdery crescent on Grand Cayman’s western coast has plenty of room to spread out a blanket for a sunset picnic.

District Guide
It’s hard to believe our sleepy little island, which resembles the shape of a floating sombrero, was once the center of a booming sugar cane industry. Nevis, so named by Christopher Columbus, saw cloud-surrounded Nevis Peak and called the island “las nieves” or snow.

Nevis grows on people. It’s a destination that many love because of its laid-back, old-fashioned lifestyle. Being here is akin to the way things were a century ago: power supplies are unpredictable, roads are riddled with potholes, and it’s not unusual for the island to run out of supplies if the seas are high and cargo boats can’t dock. Yet, it’s this charm that attracts many who return year after year. It’s a place where everyone knows everyone, and it’s hard to get away with anything without becoming the talk of the town.

Despite old-time charm, Nevis does have a posh Four Seasons Resort and several upscale plantation inns that provide modern-day services in spite of it all.

Today, Nevis relies primarily on tourism to drive its economic engine. Of the nearly 10,000 residents, more than 700 work at the Four Seasons, and many more staff the other hotels and restaurants. In addition to tourism, Nevis’ other big industry is offshore financial institutions, and dozens of them have opened in recent years.

The birthplace of American patriot Alexander Hamilton, Nevis has a colorful history as the one time stomping ground of British Naval Admiral Horatio Nelson. Nevis flourished in the 18th and early 19th centuries when sugar dominated the economy of the Caribbean, and particularly Nevis. Once English, the island is now an independent Federation with its sister island of St. Kitts. However, many on Nevis have believed that Nevis should strike out on its own. In 1999, a referendum to succeed from the Federation was narrowly defeated in a popular vote. The English traditions have continued, and the schools, government, and other institutions are based on the British systems.

Because of its rich history, Nevis is physically beautiful with the ruins of old plantations with chimneys and windmills dotting the landscape. The capital of Charlestown is filled with charming West Indian buildings, constructed of volcanic stone and decorated with wooden gingerbread.

We have one primary road, 21.5 miles long and circular, it runs around the island, so it’s difficult to get lost here, unless you’re hiking in the mountains without a guide.

Charlestown

This wonderful 18th century city is considered the main harbor; it looks across at its sister island, St. Kitts. Laid out along the main road that encircles the island, Charlestown is a collection of mostly volcanic stone buildings, often with wooden second floors. Today, many of them are undergoing restoration.

Two main squares form the heart of the town, Memorial Square and Walwyn Square. At Memorial Square is the Courthouse, where the imposing English-style jurisprudence is practiced, and a well-known clock tower sits on the top.

The Treasury Building, the town’s jewel, is located near the center, with plans in place for its restoration. At one end of town is the delightful St. Paul’s Anglican Church, with its walled-in churchyard. Along the harbor is the former Cotton Ginnery, which was recently rehabilitated to house several small shops, an ice cream parlor, and restaurant. Next to this is our colorful public market, where vendors sell produce daily.

Off the main road is the Jewish Cemetery, which has been the subject of many studies into the one-time population of Jews who came to the island from Brazil to run the sugar industry.

There are two museums in town: the Museum of Nevis History
situated along the waterfront in the home where Hamilton was born, and the Nelson Museum, a one-time private collection of memorabilia of Lord Nelson was given to the museum.

Near the Nelson Museum is the former Bath Hotel, now in a sorry state, but once a fabulous resort hotel that attracted the likes of Samuel Coleridge. Near the hotel are hotel springs and these thermal bath attracted visitors from Europe and throughout the world because of their medicinal qualities. Today the Bath Hotel is empty, overrun by goats and sheep, and awaiting a wealthy investor able to return it to its former greatness.

Fig Tree & Montpelier

These two rural areas are steeped in history. At the charming, tiny Fig Tree Church is the wedding registry of Lord Nelson and the widow Fanny Nisbet, who were actually married at Montpelier House on March 11, 1787. Montpelier House, located right near the Montpelier Plantation Inn, was built on the site of the original Great House. James Gaskill, an Englishman, who created a world-class inn on the site upon the ruins, constructed the inn. There’s still a wonderful windmill from 1794 on the grounds.

In the Montpelier area is the new Botanical Garden of Nevis, built several years ago by a Pennsylvania businessman who was determined to create the most outstanding botanical garden in the Caribbean. Some say he is succeeding.

Gingerland

This lovely area of the island is known for its cool, green environment. Located at the base of Nevis peak near the rain forest, Gingerland has retained its original old-time flavor. There are still many old wooden chattel houses here, rum shops, and sheep and goats running free on the terrain.

In the center of the village is the Gingerland Methodist Church, as well as a small commercial area with several small stores.

Just before you reach the center of Gingerland is the Old Manor Hotel, built on an old sugar estate, with wonderfully intact ruins of the sugar factory. Lovely guest rooms have been built atop the stone ruins, offering gracious accommodation on the cool mountain slopes.

Gingerland is also the home of the Golden Rock Plantation Inn, a former sugar plantation, where many of the island’s green vervet monkeys live. Visitors usually make a stop at the inn to look for monkeys (early morning and later afternoon are best) and to walk the inn’s nature trail. It’s also a jumping off point for hikes up the mountain.

New River & Coconut Walk

On the windward side of the island are flatlands that were once used for sugar plantations. Now the ruins consist of old factories, steam engines, and a working lime kiln can be visited to get an idea of what plantation life was like. Closest to the main road is New River, the ruins of which are preserved for visitors to see. Following the goat trail down towards the water (you can actually follow the goats themselves), you’ll reach Coconut Walk.

Newcastle

The small village of Newcastle at one time had an old post office and other old buildings. But when it came time to expand the Nevis airport to allow larger planes to land, Newcastle had to go. The town was raised in the late 1990s and the runway became 200 feet longer to allow the American Eagle hopper planes to land. The Eagle still has not landed, but Nevis is ready and larger private jets have begun to arrive. The face of Newcastle is continually changing with a new airport terminal now underway with more parking.

Jones Estate

This “modern” developed area is where the bulk of the expatriate community lives. Many new homes have been built here in the last ten years and several restaurants have sprung up. Jones Estate abuts the sea, so there is easy beach access here, and really the only waterfront homes are located in this area.

Nearby is the Oualie Beach Hotel, a center for water sports, the Inn at Cades Bay, a new beachfront hotel, and Cliffdwellers, a luxury villa community which has also weekly hotel-type rentals. Restaurants in and near Jones Estate include Miss June’s Cuisine, located in a private home, Tequila Sheila’s, and Under the Sea, a restaurant/aquarium.

The Most Pristine of Virgin Gorda Beaches
Jennifer Plum Auvil

Overview

The British Virgin Islands are made up of a collection of smaller islands, each with its own unique topography and island vibe. Virgin Gorda, one of the largest islands, is a popular tourist spot with posh resorts, pristine beaches and great sailing. Virgin Gorda is probably most famous for the Baths, a unique national park on the island’s southwest coast. The Baths is unlike any other beach in the Caribbean. It features white sandy beaches framed by gigantic granite boulders, some of these with diameters reaching 40 feet. Geologists believe that these odd formations are the result of volcanoes. However, there’s no need to worry about exactly how Mother Nature created these awesome sculptures. Instead, bring along your water shoes, a snorkel and a waterproof camera and explore the series of caves and grottos created by these irregular boulders.

The Baths formations truly are majestic, but it seems every visitor to the island has the same destination in mind. For an escape from the crowds, Virgin Gorda’s natural wonders continue on from the Baths. Visitors can follow winding paths and trails to Devil’s Bay Beach. These shores are lined with coral sands that blend into startling blue water. Spring Bay is another great beach that is easily accessible from the Baths. This popular snorkeling spot is home to even more unique sea creatures.

Getting There
Nearest Major International Airport: The nearest airport is Terrence B. Lettsome International Airport in Tortola, British Virgin Islands. However, visitors traveling from North America typically need to connect through Puerto Rico or the U.S. Virgin Islands, as there are no direct flights. Once visitors arrive in Tortola, they can catch a boat to the neighboring Virgin Gorda. Many of the island’s resorts have their own private transfers available from Tortola, either by boat or chartered helicopter.

Ground Transportation: Once there, visitors can take private, open-sided buses to travel the most popular roads on the island going from the Valley to the Baths. Many resorts provide transportation around the island as well. Visitors who prefer to take in the sights at their own pace may opt to rent a car; however, the road conditions can be dangerous at points and, as in Britain, driving is on the left side of the road.

Timing
It seems the weather is always perfect in the Virgin Islands, with daytime temperatures in the mid-80s and evening temperatures in the 70s throughout most of the year. The busiest time of year (and most expensive) is the high season, from mid-December through mid-April. Then, of course, there’s the Caribbean hurricane season from June to November, but many travelers still plan trips during these months to take advantage of low rates.

Lodging
A trio of upscale resorts dominate Virgin Gorda’s hotel scene. Each resort is unique in its setting and atmosphere, but all offer incomparable service and luxury – generally with a high price tag. Laurance Rockefeller developed the sophisticated Little Dix Bay (www.littledixbay.com) in the 1960s, and the resort is still lauded for its elegant and rustic style today. The Bitter End Yacht Club (www.beyc.com) is perfect for accomplished first mates or sailing protégées who want to learn the ropes. Biras Creek (www.biras.com) is a private retreat on the northern side of the island. It’s the most secluded of the resorts, accessible only by a quick private boat ride from the mainland, and the most intimate, with a full capacity at 60 guests. Less expensive accommodations are available around the island, including the vacation homes at Guavaberry Spring Bay (www.guavaberryspringbay.com) and the condos at Olde Yard Village (www.oldeyardvillage.com).

Cuisine
Classic Caribbean fare can be found around the island. Fish is usually the most requested menu item and can be prepared in dozens of ways. The most popular catches include red snapper, mahi mahi, wahoo, yellowtail and lobster. An island specialty is callaloo soup. It is made with leafy greens, okra and a selection of ingredients to the chef’s liking, conch and crab being the most popular. A variety of bars and casual restaurants can be found at the Baths. The bar at Mad Dog serves up tropical drinks with a fabulous view, while Poor Man’s Bar is a beachside bar offering drinks, sandwiches and snacks at the Baths. The Rock Café and Top of the Baths offer great views and more formal indoor and outdoor dining with more extensive menus.

Travel Tips
To make the most of your time visiting the Baths, do your best to avoid the crowds, which reach their peak between 10 a.m. and 4 p.m.

While You are Here
Spring Bay can be reached by the series of trails that stretch out from the Baths. Large boulders form more coves and hidden grottos along the beach. Bring along your snorkel and a pair of flippers and explore the calm, fish-filled waters.

Take in a different view of Virgin Gorda from the highest point on the island at Gorda Peak National Park, on the northern part of the island. The trek to the top of the mountain is about 30 minutes and offers a nice view of the chain of islands below.