SunBeach Travel

Sip rum-laden Killer Bees at this affordable restaurant. The outdoor tables at this laid-back spot are an ideal place for watching the fiery sun drop behind he green hills of St. Kitts. On Nevis, next door to Four Seasons.

The Caribbean islands are famous for their sunshine—and rightly so. Is there anything more daydream-worthy, more symbolic of languor and ease, than those ubiquitous images of sugary white beaches, dappled palms, and turquoise lagoons sparkling in the sun?

Sunsets in the Caribbean don’t get nearly as much attention. But they should. Those gorgeous stretches of sand and sea (well, at least the western-facing ones) are every bit as spectacular in the light of the setting sun, with Easter egg–colored clouds floating overhead. Especially when you have someone to share them with.

For centuries, sunsets—particularly sunsets over the sea—have inspired romantic musings. In his epic poem Evangeline (published in 1847) Henry Wadsworth Longfellow put it like this:

Softly the evening came. The sun from the western horizon Like a magician extended his golden want o’er the landscape; Trinkling vapors arose; and sky and water and forest Seemed all on fire at the touch, and melted and mingled together.

With all that melting and mingling and fiery touching, it’s no wonder so many sunset-watching spots seem custom-tailored for couples. Grand Cayman’s Seven Mile Beach, for example—though public, and actually closer to five-and-a-half miles—is long enough that starry-eyed duos find plenty of space for intimate evening strolls or picnics. And at St. Lucia’s Jade Mountain resort, honeymooners (or wannabes) can soak together in private infinity pools—some as large as 900 square feet—while watching the sun go down.

In the Caribbean, though, romance doesn’t always have to mean seclusion. It’s hard not to have an enchanted evening at Jamaica’s famous Rick’s Café, for instance—lingering on the cliffside terrace for grilled seafood and Tropitinis, then dancing to live reggae music as the sun dips low. The same can be said for gathering among island locals on Antigua’s highest hill, Shirley Heights, with its sunset views over sweeping beaches and sailboats bobbing at anchor.

Of course, each one of these spots can be the perfect setting for romance—as long as you bring the right person. But that’s not up to the islands; that’s up to you.

Peter Island Resort, Peter Island

Every evening, this resort runs a “Sunset at the Loop” tour for guests. Participants are taken to an overlook of Deadman’s Bay on the west side of the island and plied with hors d’oeuvres and bubbly while they watch the sun set over neighboring St. John.

Mount Sage National Park, Tortola

Set within a tropical refuge, the Mahogany Trail winds a quick 300 yards up to the summit of Mount Sage. At 1,716 feet, it’s the highest point in the Virgin Islands—and the best place to watch the sun set.

Jade Mountain, St. Lucia

From this resort’s west-facing rooms you’ll see the sky’s red-orange hues reflecting off the Caribbean; upgrade to a suite and you’ll get a panoramic lookout from a private infinity pool.

Boqueron Beach, Puerto Rico

Head to this mile-long stretch of white sand on Puerto Rico’s southwestern coast—and keep your eyes peeled for the famed “green flash,” (caused by refracted light rays) right before the sun disappears below the horizon.

On the Rocks restaurant at Eden Rock Hotel, St. Bart’s

From the open-air deck of this French restaurant overlooking St. John’s Bay, you’ll have a front-row seat for both the sunset and the schools of parrot fish that dart beneath the surface of the sea.

Sunshine’s Grill, Nevis

The outdoor tables at this laid-back spot on Pinney’s Beach are an ideal place for watching the sun drop behind the green hills of St. Kitts (and for sipping some locally famous “Killer Bee” rum punch).

Landfall Park, San Salvador, Bahamas

A simple stone cross at Fernandez Bay, on San Salvador’s west coast, commemorates Christopher Columbus’s first landfall in the New World. Many a visitor has snapped the sun setting into the water with the monument in the foreground.

Seven Mile Beach, Grand Cayman

Though it’s actually a little less than six miles long, this powdery crescent on Grand Cayman’s western coast has plenty of room to spread out a blanket for a sunset picnic.

Rick’s Café, Jamaica

This bar and café perched on Negril’s West End Cliffs is famous for the spectacular sunset-viewing from its expansive terrace—and also for the wild after-dark parties that spill onto the beach below.

Shirley Heights, Antigua

From the highest point in Antigua—where the remains of General Shirley’s 17th-century fort still stand—the sun sets beautifully over English Harbour and Galleon Beach. Go on a Sunday night and you’ll meet locals who gather there for a regular sunset party.

District Guide
It’s hard to believe our sleepy little island, which resembles the shape of a floating sombrero, was once the center of a booming sugar cane industry. Nevis, so named by Christopher Columbus, saw cloud-surrounded Nevis Peak and called the island “las nieves” or snow.

Nevis grows on people. It’s a destination that many love because of its laid-back, old-fashioned lifestyle. Being here is akin to the way things were a century ago: power supplies are unpredictable, roads are riddled with potholes, and it’s not unusual for the island to run out of supplies if the seas are high and cargo boats can’t dock. Yet, it’s this charm that attracts many who return year after year. It’s a place where everyone knows everyone, and it’s hard to get away with anything without becoming the talk of the town.

Despite old-time charm, Nevis does have a posh Four Seasons Resort and several upscale plantation inns that provide modern-day services in spite of it all.

Today, Nevis relies primarily on tourism to drive its economic engine. Of the nearly 10,000 residents, more than 700 work at the Four Seasons, and many more staff the other hotels and restaurants. In addition to tourism, Nevis’ other big industry is offshore financial institutions, and dozens of them have opened in recent years.

The birthplace of American patriot Alexander Hamilton, Nevis has a colorful history as the one time stomping ground of British Naval Admiral Horatio Nelson. Nevis flourished in the 18th and early 19th centuries when sugar dominated the economy of the Caribbean, and particularly Nevis. Once English, the island is now an independent Federation with its sister island of St. Kitts. However, many on Nevis have believed that Nevis should strike out on its own. In 1999, a referendum to succeed from the Federation was narrowly defeated in a popular vote. The English traditions have continued, and the schools, government, and other institutions are based on the British systems.

Because of its rich history, Nevis is physically beautiful with the ruins of old plantations with chimneys and windmills dotting the landscape. The capital of Charlestown is filled with charming West Indian buildings, constructed of volcanic stone and decorated with wooden gingerbread.

We have one primary road, 21.5 miles long and circular, it runs around the island, so it’s difficult to get lost here, unless you’re hiking in the mountains without a guide.

Charlestown

This wonderful 18th century city is considered the main harbor; it looks across at its sister island, St. Kitts. Laid out along the main road that encircles the island, Charlestown is a collection of mostly volcanic stone buildings, often with wooden second floors. Today, many of them are undergoing restoration.

Two main squares form the heart of the town, Memorial Square and Walwyn Square. At Memorial Square is the Courthouse, where the imposing English-style jurisprudence is practiced, and a well-known clock tower sits on the top.

The Treasury Building, the town’s jewel, is located near the center, with plans in place for its restoration. At one end of town is the delightful St. Paul’s Anglican Church, with its walled-in churchyard. Along the harbor is the former Cotton Ginnery, which was recently rehabilitated to house several small shops, an ice cream parlor, and restaurant. Next to this is our colorful public market, where vendors sell produce daily.

Off the main road is the Jewish Cemetery, which has been the subject of many studies into the one-time population of Jews who came to the island from Brazil to run the sugar industry.

There are two museums in town: the Museum of Nevis History
situated along the waterfront in the home where Hamilton was born, and the Nelson Museum, a one-time private collection of memorabilia of Lord Nelson was given to the museum.

Near the Nelson Museum is the former Bath Hotel, now in a sorry state, but once a fabulous resort hotel that attracted the likes of Samuel Coleridge. Near the hotel are hotel springs and these thermal bath attracted visitors from Europe and throughout the world because of their medicinal qualities. Today the Bath Hotel is empty, overrun by goats and sheep, and awaiting a wealthy investor able to return it to its former greatness.

Fig Tree & Montpelier

These two rural areas are steeped in history. At the charming, tiny Fig Tree Church is the wedding registry of Lord Nelson and the widow Fanny Nisbet, who were actually married at Montpelier House on March 11, 1787. Montpelier House, located right near the Montpelier Plantation Inn, was built on the site of the original Great House. James Gaskill, an Englishman, who created a world-class inn on the site upon the ruins, constructed the inn. There’s still a wonderful windmill from 1794 on the grounds.

In the Montpelier area is the new Botanical Garden of Nevis, built several years ago by a Pennsylvania businessman who was determined to create the most outstanding botanical garden in the Caribbean. Some say he is succeeding.

Gingerland

This lovely area of the island is known for its cool, green environment. Located at the base of Nevis peak near the rain forest, Gingerland has retained its original old-time flavor. There are still many old wooden chattel houses here, rum shops, and sheep and goats running free on the terrain.

In the center of the village is the Gingerland Methodist Church, as well as a small commercial area with several small stores.

Just before you reach the center of Gingerland is the Old Manor Hotel, built on an old sugar estate, with wonderfully intact ruins of the sugar factory. Lovely guest rooms have been built atop the stone ruins, offering gracious accommodation on the cool mountain slopes.

Gingerland is also the home of the Golden Rock Plantation Inn, a former sugar plantation, where many of the island’s green vervet monkeys live. Visitors usually make a stop at the inn to look for monkeys (early morning and later afternoon are best) and to walk the inn’s nature trail. It’s also a jumping off point for hikes up the mountain.

New River & Coconut Walk

On the windward side of the island are flatlands that were once used for sugar plantations. Now the ruins consist of old factories, steam engines, and a working lime kiln can be visited to get an idea of what plantation life was like. Closest to the main road is New River, the ruins of which are preserved for visitors to see. Following the goat trail down towards the water (you can actually follow the goats themselves), you’ll reach Coconut Walk.

Newcastle

The small village of Newcastle at one time had an old post office and other old buildings. But when it came time to expand the Nevis airport to allow larger planes to land, Newcastle had to go. The town was raised in the late 1990s and the runway became 200 feet longer to allow the American Eagle hopper planes to land. The Eagle still has not landed, but Nevis is ready and larger private jets have begun to arrive. The face of Newcastle is continually changing with a new airport terminal now underway with more parking.

Jones Estate

This “modern” developed area is where the bulk of the expatriate community lives. Many new homes have been built here in the last ten years and several restaurants have sprung up. Jones Estate abuts the sea, so there is easy beach access here, and really the only waterfront homes are located in this area.

Nearby is the Oualie Beach Hotel, a center for water sports, the Inn at Cades Bay, a new beachfront hotel, and Cliffdwellers, a luxury villa community which has also weekly hotel-type rentals. Restaurants in and near Jones Estate include Miss June’s Cuisine, located in a private home, Tequila Sheila’s, and Under the Sea, a restaurant/aquarium.

Discover The Caribbean’s Secret Gem
By Jennifer Plum Auvil

Overview
Once a secret hideaway, Anguilla has come into its own as a Caribbean hot spot for Hollywood starlets and honeymooners alike. But don’t let Anguilla’s popularity scare you away: it is certainly well deserved, as proven by this island’s beautiful beaches, posh resorts and overall laid-back charm. There are 33 beaches on this 16-mile stretch of island, and the best part is that they are all open to the public. This is truly a dream for beach hoppers looking to check out a few sandy shores before settling down on one. One of the most popular beaches is Shoal Bay, a 2-mile strip of pearly-white sand on the Atlantic side that has a convenient equipment rental on site for visitors. Rendezvous Bay is another gem, renowned for its stunning seascape and shallow, family-friendly water. With the powdery beaches and tranquil atmosphere, most visitors will find it hard to peel their bodies off their beachside lounge chair. However, there is plenty to explore both on land and under the sea. The island’s coral reefs provide snorkeling fans with the perfect backdrop of vivid coral gardens, bright schools of fish and low-gliding stingrays. At Stoney Bay Marine Park there is a sunken Spanish ship dating back to the 18th century that is an underwater treasure trove for scuba enthusiasts. But, really, if you just want to pull that beach chair under a palm tree and spend the day staring out at the azure waters, no one is going to argue with that.

Getting There
Nearest Major International Airport: While visitors cannot get a direct flight from North America, Anguilla is a short flight from other Caribbean destinations. Most flights connect through San Juan or St. Maarten to Wallblake airport. Island hoppers can also take a ferry from St. Martin to the Blowing Point ferry terminal.

Ground Transportation: The best way to get around the island is by cab. But for those diehard explorers who wish to trek around the island without a schedule, a rental car is a great option. However, drivers must apply for a temporary license and, keeping to Anguilla’s British ties, keep on the left side of the road.

Timing
As the temperatures drop in the winter, tourism booms in the Caribbean. Anguilla is no exception to this rule. The high season runs from December through April, and visitors can expect the prices to go up during this time. The average monthly temperature hovers around a very pleasant 80 F.

Lodging
A trip to Anguilla’s famed beaches does come at a cost – and a high one at that. The island’s popularity has exploded in recent years, thanks to vacationing movie stars and plenty of media attention, and of course, those stunning beaches. The grand dame of the beach is surely Cap Juluca (1-888-858-5822, 264-497-6666) with its striking Moorish buildings, secluded rooms and some of the island’s best beaches. The prices at CuisinArt Resort and Spa (1-800-943-3210, 264-498-2000) may be steep, but foodies will surely overlook the expense once they get a tour or the resort’s awesome hydroponic farm and enroll in cooking classes at the gorgeous stadium kitchen. The Arawak Beach Inn (1-877-427-2925, 264-497-4888) on Island Harbour Beach has 17 pastel beach bungalows that fit the bill for budget-conscious travelers. Many of the rooms are equipped with kitchens to help cut costs even further. On the opposite extreme there are private villas, where the island’s wealthiest visitors relax and unwind – for a mere $30,000 a week and up. Visitors looking for the atmosphere of a private home at a lower cost should consider the resort at Covecastles (1-800-223-1108, 264-497-6801). Prices begin at $1,095 a day.

Cuisine
The island’s culinary specialties include spiny lobster and other treats from the sea as well as traditional dishes made with goat. Many of the island’s best restaurants come with a view of the water and a high price. The most romantic dinner might be served at Malliouhana Restaurant (264-497-6111); its sweeping ocean views and dreamy candlelit setting provide the ideal backdrop for an elegant French meal. The meals at Blanchard’s (264-497-6100) can tempt even the most sophisticated palate, and the restaurant’s downplayed elegance can’t be beat. The tiny cottage that is home to Hibernia (264-497-4290) only has room for 11 tables, making it a great choice for an intimate and creative epicurean adventure. Finally, for diners looking to keep the tab under $100 and the atmosphere casual, Ripples (264-497-3380) and The Pumphouse Bar & Grill (264-497-5154) fit the bill.

Travel Tips
The rest of the world has caught on to this not-so-secret hideaway, and Anguilla’s resorts are considered to be some of the best in the entire Caribbean. This means that it’s important to book early so that rooms aren’t filled up. Also, many of the island’s resorts shut down for the months of September and October, so plan accordingly.

While You’re There
Put on some dark shades and pretend you’re dodging the paparazzi like the rest of the Hollywood stars enjoying cocktails and live music at the beach bar at Johnno’s (264-497-2728).

Hail a boat from the dock at Island Harbour and get onboard for the three-minute boat ride to Scilly Cay (264-497-5123). This private island is a great pick for sunbathing, snorkeling and feasting on the grilled lobster and infamous rum punch.

Shopaholics take note: A 20-minute ferry ride will take you to French St. Martin for an afternoon of browsing and bargaining at that island’s many shops.